Grüner Veltliner: the flagship Austrian variety
Grüner Veltliner is Austria's most important white variety, accounting for over a third of the country's wine-growing area. In the late 20th century, the variety gained worldwide recognition, not only because the market needed another wine fashion, but also because Grüner Veltliner is a universal player that can satisfy every taste, whether we are talking about fresh and fruity, extract and full-bodied or dessert wines. Grüners can be surprisingly concentrated, intense and Burgundian-style with ageing potential. The most characteristic aromas of the variety are the so-called pepperiness (which for non-Austrians can be translated as a hint of grapefruit) and accents of stone fruit - apricot, peach. Other varietal-specific aromas fill almost the entire sensory palette: ripe and dried apricot, nougat, lime, pineapple, lily of the valley, apple, chamomile, rose, pear, mint, almonds, acacia honey, quince, tobacco, marzipan, banana, jasmine, eucalyptus, wet rock, raisins, caramel, lychee, asparagus, black bread crust, green tea, etc.
A few facts: in the 20th century, ampelography (the science that studies and describes the types and varieties of vines) already knows that the Gruner Veltliner is a natural cross between a Traminer and an ancient, now extinct, variety St. Georgen, so named at the place where he was found. It is not known exactly where he came from, but in Austria appears for the first time in the province of Lower Austria.
In the vineyard, the variety is relatively easy to work with. It does not have high demands on location and soil. However, it does not tolerate being planted everywhere. It likes loess as a soil constituent, grows well on both rich and less fertile soils, withstands dry periods and is prone to certain diseases only on heavy, chalky soils. The thickness and strength of the vine give it sufficient resistance to frost. Its clusters are thick-skinned. Grüner Veltliner is medium to late maturing.
Wine connoisseurs around the world know the variety as the pride of Austrian winemaking. Whether it is due to terroir, climate, method of production or attitude to the variety cannot be stated unequivocally, but it is a fact that in Austria Gruner Veltliner gives incredibly rich and varied wines: from light and spicy "summer" to heavy, dense and extracts. However, they are all distinguished by remarkable aromas, spiciness and minerality. Gruner even responds well to aging in oak barrels, which is a surprise for such a fragrant white variety.
Where is it?
Разбира се, в Австрия. Освен обичан и уважаван, грюнер велтлинерът е и най-важният за страната в икономическо отношение сорт. Той заема 31% от лозарските площи (14.423 хектара). Най-широко разпространен е в провинция Долна Австрия, която е най-големият винарски регион на страната. Климатът на сравнително равнинната област е решаващото обстоятелство за високо ароматните и екстрактни вина, които се произвеждат тук. Значителните разлики между дневните и нощни температури възникват при срещата на топлите въздушни течения от Дунавската равнина със студените въздушни маси от север. Това забавя зреенето на гроздето до средна и дори късна есен, която, ако природата е решила, е дълга и топла и при беритбата гроздето е достигнало оптималната си зрялост. Грюнер велтлинерът от триъгълника Вахау-Кремс-Лангенлоис, откъдето идват може би най-добрите представители на вината от сорта, развива в добра година изключително минерален, пикантен и отличаващ се с хладна елегантност нос, който е невъзможно да се получи в по-южните райони.
Gruner Veltliner can also be found in Hungary (Veltelini), the Czech Republic and Slovakia (Veltlinske zelene) and Croatia (Zleni Veltinac).
